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Honeywell error codeWV8840 Honeywell gas valve blinking 4 timesNew gas WT8840 gas valve does not have same problemError codes WV8840 series Error codes WT8840 |
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| Design flaw in WV8840?
When error code is blinking 4 times, the troubleshoot section in WV8840 manual says to replace gas control valve because high limit ECO or high limit has tripped. The Honeywell WV8840 series ECO trips at 188-199°F ... all calibrations are approximate. But this error actually means something is wrong with gas control valve design, or engineering or manufacturing ... and should be covered by warranty. Why:  The
TCO (thermal cut off) is a re-settable switch located on
front of combustion chamber. Or on Ultra low NOx heaters, it is located
inside the combustion chamber and can be replaced. The TCO responds to
heat inside the
combustion chamber, and operates
mechanically (no electronics). Locate the TCO
by removing
combustion cover on front of heater and following red-white wires down
from gas control valve. The red wire is connected to the TCO. After passing the TCO, the red and white wires enter the combustion chamber where they are connected to the thermopile. The thermopile is heated by the pilot flame and produces enough current to operate gas valve circuit board. The TCO trips off when temperatures inside the combustion chamber reach 190-200°F depending on models. When the TCO trips, the circuit board receives no power, and gas valve solenoids turn off fuel, and both pilot light and burner flames go out. Resource: How to test TCO So if burner shuts
down when combustion chamber reaches 190-200°F, how
did water temperature inside tank go above 188-199° when the
thermal efficiency (percentage of combustion heat that is actually
converted into hot water) of atmospheric vented gas heaters that use
the WV8840 is about 80-85%. The atmospheric water heater that uses the
WV8840 experiences 15-20% heat loss up the flue pipe,
so 190-200°F in
the combustion chamber would not likely cause 188-199° water
temperatures
inside the tank.
New gas valve design does not have same problem Replacement valve WT8840 does not have same problem The new replacement Honeywell gas valve is the WT8840 (vs the older WV8840). The new valve can be put back into service after the 4 blink error by turning down temperature a bit. One
resource showed the new valve has higher limit ... with ECO trip at
210°.
Max temperature for any type water heater, including boilers, booster heaters etc is 210° to avoid risk of steam explosion. The TP valve releases water at 210°. I do not know if higher ECO threshold is the reason the new WT series gas valve does not have same problem as older WV series. Remember, the 4 blink error code on the new gas valve does NOT mean the gas valve has no problem. The heater must be checked out, with no guarantee that the gas valve has not actually failed and needs to be replaced ... but the good new is, that if problem is just a glitchy misread of temperature, then the new WT series gas valve will recover (without replacement) by turning down temperature a bit. The new WT8840 (vs the older WV8840) reduces the certainty of having to replace gas valve if you have the 4 blink error. Resource: Read the write-up and resources How to replace Honeywell gas control valve |
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| Bob
Robertson wrote the following solution: I had a power outage at my house and coincidentally (?) my water heater pilot light went out. My Kenmore water heater is controlled by the Honeywell Gas Valve (part # 9007884), which contains the WV8840 Communication Port. [Sounds like the WV88040 gas control valve] The water heater wouldn’t re-light, but I noticed that the indicator was blinking four times in succession. That signaled an error code for a fatal flaw in the water heater gas valve. The water heater had supposedly over-heated, even though I had never had it set to anything but “low” (120°F) in the 3 years I have had it. By the way, the 3 year warranty expired 3 week ago. The manual, and Sears parts department, told me I needed a new control valve at $150. That was their only solution. They said there was no way to re-set the board. I researched the internet (many hours!) and found a guy that removed the board allowing the capacitors to discharge fully, (just by removing the board). I ended up doing this and it worked like magic. Gene adds: the valve is disassembled by removing screw at bottom of gas control: Steps for disassembly Steps for replacing gas control Although, the first time I did it, I only let it sit for about a half hour like he did, and I still got the 4 blinks and it wouldn’t light. So, I decided to let it sit overnight and that did the trick for me. When I put it back in it blinked 7 times. I lit the pilot, and the indicator returned to 1 regular blink (the sign of normal function) as the gas flowed to the burner and ignited.  There is no need to completely remove the board from
the plastic
control valve cover. The board is held in by one “T-15 torx screw” that would be uncommon for most folks. Just make sure you label (or cell phone picture) where the wires go, to be able to return them, and then disconnect all the wires. This will insure that the board will not be getting any electrostatic signals from the water heater. It’s not very complicated, really. The cover on the Water Heater’s gas valve is removed by a single flat head screw at the bottom. And two finger-pressable connectors at the top. You don’t have to drain the tank or disconnect any gas lines. Although, it wouldn’t hurt to turn the gas off at the water heater line by twisting the valve into the horizontal position. I thought you might want to add this info to your “do-it-yourself” site. It saved me $150. Honeywell and Sears/Home Depot/etc. would encourage you to waste the money on a new part. Thank God for the internet! And thanks so much for the clear directions on your website! Bob Robertson Read more Gene adds: Thanks for your contribution, Bob ... a lot of folks read this page since it was posted Jan 2016 .... Also ... according to the service manual on pg 5 and 21, 4 blinks can mean a failed gas control which Sears confirmed, but it can also be a tripped ECO (energy cut off which trips when temperature of water inside tank exceeds 199°F ) ./... the temperature probe is a thermistor which changes resistance (measured in ohms) when water temperature changes ... the gas control interprets change in resistance as change in water temperature ... however, since the thermistor is electromechanical, then a temperature of 199° could be simulated onto the thermistor by electrical charge from nearby lightning strike .... the lightning could also destroy the gas valve of course .... resource: why you need ground wire .... but if the problem is tripped ECO, then the supposed repair is to turn gas control knob to OFF and wait minimum 5 minutes before re-lighting. Other internet sources report: "Draining your tank yearly may have prevented this but who the hell does that. The sediment can build up and surround the stock probe and retains heat insulating the probe and causing the 4 flash situation. I have set a reminder in outlook to drain my tank once a year from now on. I guess Water heaters are now interactive devices requiring yearly maintenance." "I removed the circuit board. I shorted every connection on the board to the only connection marked GND rather than wait the hour. Once reinstalled, it went into the 7 flash mode, but the pilot lit, and when set to HIGH it fired right off. Within a couple minutes it reverted to 1 flash, and is working fine. Definitely will be draining sediment as a preventive measure later this week." "I unplugged the little cable [red and white wires going to thermopile] for about 10 minutes and replugged in and got 7 flashes. After another 10 minutes or so, it reverted to 1 flash and fired up. I also drained a small amount of sediment from the bottom of the tank, which was mostly brown water." "I just unplugged the red and white input power and waited about 1 hour." Turns out painting and cleaning the basement tripped a code “7 flashes” "Taking out the circuit board and shorting across the pins (on back side of board) of what I believe is a capacitor**, worked to get the 7 flashes and then unit would light. I also drained some water then flushed a lot." |
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Honeywell gas control valve for
residential atmospheric vent models  Temperature
range Low 55° - very hot 160°Average bath 110°104°F, typical water heater temp 120° . Severe scalding risk over 135° ECO (energy cut off located inside gas valve probe) limit 199° F, Basic water heater parts TP release water at 210°F and 150 psi. TP valve code TCO located on front of combustion chamber trips off at 180°F What-is-a-TCO All calibrations are approximate Buy Reliance/ Honeywell gas control American / Honeywell gas control  Kenmore
water heater gas valveCraftmaster/ Whirlpool Bradford White AO Smith Honeywell gas control at Amazon American / Honeywell gas control at Amazon Honeywell gas valve for propane Honeywell natural gas valve Reliance NG at Amazon Reliance LP at Amazon Kenmore water heater gas valve Gas water heater timer fits this valve Resources: How to test and replace gas control valve Step-by-step how to replace Honeywell gas control valve |
 Larger imageDisassemble Icon gas control Temperature sensor, igniter and gas control can be replaced without draining tank. Backplate remains installed. How to replace Honeywell gas control valve How to replace Honeywell gas control. 1) Unplug wires and disconnect piezo igniter 2) Remove 1 screw. On front bottom below plastic cover is 1 screw located on left side. 3) Remove plastic cover. Tip plastic cover out from bottom, and then pull straight back toward you and cover snaps off. Caution: plastic cover is connected to body with 3-strand yellow-orange-white wire. 4) Disconnect yellow-orange-white wire. Wire is plugged into circuit board on plastic cover. Grasp wire and pull upward to unplug wire from circuit board.. 5) Remove valve body from backplate. There are 2 plastic clips that hold valve body to backplate. These are located at bottom on right and left side. Use screwdriver to push 1 clip down while while using another screwdriver to pry valve body outward. Then use screwdriver to push down other clip to release valve body. |
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 Larger image Gas valve will NOT leak if the plastic cover is removed. Circuit boards vary by gas valve model number and circuit board from another heater cannot be 'plugged' into another valve. |
 Larger imageCautions Do not take apart the gas valve. If aluminum cover is removed to expose magnets as shown in photo, the gas valve WILL leak. There are NO replaceable parts inside the gas valve.... picture is for informational purpose only. Do NOT reuse a gas valve that has been taken apart as shown in this photo. Do not reuse gas valve from another heater .... each gas valve has a specific model number, and gas valves vary by type of gas, BTU rating, manifold pressure etc. Circuit boards vary by gas control model and cannot be 'plugged' into another valve. |
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 Note
that the WV8840 is being phased out for the WT8840 ... (2020)Can you install the WT series on your AO Smith brands* or Bradford White water heater? Yes. You might have to remove gas valve body from tank. Match numbers shown on chart ... note insulation thickness and brand... and of course note if your valve is natural gas or propane. Buy: WT8840B1000 at Amazon WT8840B1500 WT8840A1000 WT8840A1500 Resource: WT8840 replacement manual WT8840 product overview models What is the difference between WV8840 and WT8840? Answer: Response to Error code 4 1) Remember, gas valves come out of calibration and have other problems ... it is unavoidable that they do fail ... the WT8840 is just a tad more flexible, letting you reset error code 4 if the gas valve temperature sensor or circuit board has experienced a temporary misread. 2) As near as I can tell, there is a higher ECO limit .... the older WV high limit at 190-200°F and newer WT at 210°F. What is ECO? Energy cut off or high limit. The heater has a thermostat probe located on back of gas valve that extends into water. The probe holds a variable resistor that connects to circuit board via 3 wires. As water temperatures inside tank rise and fall, the variable resistor produces small variation in current that circuit board interprets as change in water temperature. If the resistor senses temperatures over the ECO limit, or the high limit, then circuit board will fault the gas valve into failure. If the thermostat
probe is not coated with sediments (do the recommended maintenance and
flush tank each 6 months),
and variable resistor (thermostat) has not failed, and the circuit
board is functioning
correctly, and there are no other problems with gas valve ....
You might be able to
reset the circuit board DIY as shown following link: error
code blinking 4 timesthen the cause for error 4 is more likely a temporary misread of water temperature ... that could correct itself with simple dial-down of temperature setting and maybe ON-OFF cycle of heater by setting gas valve knob to off, waiting 10 minutes and then relight heater ... except the WV880 will not accommodate options ... and error code 4 is a failed gas valve. 3) The newer WT8840 does not have same fatal error (in all circumstances). Error 4 on WT8840 doesn't mean the gas valve is OK .... it just means the gas valve does not need to be replaced in all circumstances. Dial down temperature a bit .... and if needed, cycle the gas valve OFF using temperature dial located front of gas control valve, wait 10 minutes for gas to clear, then relight heater. Resources: How to light heater .pdf Read error code blinking 4 times Why I do not recommend Rheem water heaters |
| 14 things needed for gas water heater & .pdf resources | |
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What you need for
operation of gas water heater. Next pages 1) Basic parts and operation 2) Adequate incoming air supply ... issues: closed doors, tightly insulated house, very hot attic. 3) Adequate air supply getting to burner... issues: dirty vent screen, dirty environment, maintenance. 4) Thermal cutoff ... TCO ... issues: failed part, maintenance, vent. 5) Flammable vapor lockout .... issues: exposure to vapors, bad FV sensor, failed FV system, 6) Fuel supply to gas valve thermostat ... natural gas and propane are different ... issues: wrong gas, low pressure, moisture in pipe, undersized gas meter, supply line too small for BTU rating. 7) Gas valve thermostat regulates fuel supply ... issues: not enough gas, failed thermostat, failed gas control valve. 8) Fuel supply from thermostat to burner ... issues: maintenance, thermocouple-thermopile, gas control valve. 9) Clean and replace burner ... issue: periodic maintenance requires burner inspection, cleaning, and possible replacement 10) Functioning thermopile-thermocouple-pilot light ... issues: misalignment, failure of part. 11) Ignition of fuel supply by pilot light or hot surface igniter ... issues: pilot light, piezo igniter, electrode. 12) Power vent water heater troubleshoot ... issues: pressure switch, blower, blower sequence from gas control, outlet polarity 13) Venting combustion byproduct .... issues: vent in disrepair, other vents in house drawing air 14) Misc troubleshoot manuals |
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