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Hi there, I found your website which had a ton of good information.
I have a water heater that is leaking from the temperature and pressure valve on top.
Naturally I replaced the valve only to continue experiencing a leak.
It seems like a random spurt throughout the day and not a ton of water but does make a mess.

Any idea what would cause the value to continue to leak?
Nothing has changed on the water supply to the house.
Any ideas would be appreciated! Thanks - Cody

You have either very hot water or very high pressure that releases water when temp or pressure exceeds TP rating.
TP valve is not designed to be a permanent solution for problem.

Since leak is sporadic (unpredictable or not constant), there are 4 suspects:

Action if bad thermostat(s) is suspect:
... check water temps by opening the TP occasionally or running taps at full hot and see if water is extremely hot.
 ... 170-210 °F water inside tank is a dangerous hazard and would be immediately apparent at the hot water tap ... scalding in less than a second.
.. electric thermostats are easy and cheap to replace
... gas thermostat is different pickle ...
Resources:
How to replace thermostat on gas water heater
How to replace thermostat on electric heater

Action if pressure spikes or closed system are suspect
... use a pressure gauge and attach to drain valve on water heater
... 50-60 psi is best ... Anything approaching 80 psi can cause TP valve expel water, usually when tank is heating.
80 psi is considered the cut off point, beyond which damage to heater and plumbing pipes and fixtures can occur.
Buy:
Water pressure gauges
Watts telltale Water Pressure Test Gauge, 276H300

Thank you so much for the response.
I can’t wrap my head around it being a pressure issue since nothing has changed on the incoming cold water line.
I do think the thermostats could be overheating.
I will check on the temp.
Really hoping I don’t have to hire a plumber to do an expansion tank.
I really like your site, thank you so much!

Expansion tank is a solution if pressure tests high ... but depends on the pressure test
... pressure is a suspect if you changed plumbing or city installed new water meter with a check valve ... or city pressure has gone up.
.... a check valve on city water meter is fairly common ... and prevents natural expansion of hot water produced by a heater from pushing back out onto incoming supply line. This creates a 'closed system' that can be fixed with expansion tank.

...since you mention thermostats (plural) 
... I assume you have electric heater
... turn off power of course ... there is no reliable test for electric thermostats
... in this case if new upper and lower thermostats don't solve problem
...then it is could be cracked (shorted) element  ... How to test element

It’s been a day...
replaced both thermostats and elements.
The problem appears worse now
and now I have other leaks from working on older plumbing.
The heater is electric, GE made in 2004.
Everything looked fine that I took out today. 
I cleaned the bottom out of the tank too.
The city water meter and everything on the supply side did not change.
I did T into our main water line last year to do some yard irrigation,
...but all of that is turned off and wouldn’t affect the main supply.
I think I’ve tried everything and will need to call a plumber unless you have any other thoughts.
 I really appreciate your insight

Practically anything can be fixed
... but give me specifics
... what is worse than before?
Do you have galvanized pipe or copper, pvc ?
What other leaks do you have?
 I'm pretty good at this stuff if you're patient,
otherwise, forget plumber for now ... and do the pressure test
... avoid buying new electric heater ... they're about $417 around here, but if are you connecting to old galvanized?? Because galvanized pipe could be the problem if elbow is clogged with sediment, rust etc.
A simple dielectric union or brass fitting might solve problem.
... my email is geno03245w@gmail.com, or continue messaging on facebook @ https://www.facebook.com/waterheatertimer.org/
.. send photos ... photos help me see through walls better

It seems like there is a little more water coming out of the temp/pressure valve than before but perhaps not
The old supply line is leaking now and it can’t be replaced without soldering I think
I checked pressure on drain...
It’s over 90 psi at drain. Is that high?

Good grief ... your pressure is 90 psi
... max is 80 psi ... preferred is 50-60 psi
... move the pressure gauge to outside spigot to check cold water pressure.
.. might want to de-energize tank, run hot out of the tank for a bit
... then check pressures again
... which supply line is leaking? cold or hot?
Buy:
Water pressure gauges
Watts telltale Water Pressure Test Gauge, 276H300

 My pipes are copper.
The cold supply is threaded onto the water heater where is leaking, and it's soldered to the copper shut off valve.
Outside spigot pressure reads exactly the same
Seems about 90psi

OK, the 90 psi pressure on inside and outside
..  the high pressure might be why you sprung a leak on the supply line 

Copper pipe is good ... that removes problems from old galvanized pipe.
Cut off, or unsolder connection to the shut off valve, and solder on a male adapter so new copper flex line can be attached.
Resource: How to solder pipes

.So now the problem is 90 psi is way high
... I think that's why the TP is leaking ... and probably the thermostats were ok. So don't throw away the old thermostats or elements etc.
... next, we need to check if this is a 'closed system'
Resource: Closed-system.html

....This will narrow down causes and solutions ... for example, has the city water pressure spiked? Or maybe some other cause.
.... cool the tank down so it's not putting  pressure into the system and then check cold on outdoor spigot again.
If pressure goes down when tank is not hot, then that suggests a closed system .... if pressure is still high, then the city pressure is causing the problem...
High pressure from city might be occasional thing, or might get worse, or better ... but usually it's the customer's problem, unless you're in a wealthy area and can afford to have other ratepayers support improvements for you without taking your money.

Now here's another thing to check when you see high pressure on your water line, check the neighbor's outdoor spigot for pressure spike at same time.
Buy:
Expansion tanks
Resources:
Expansion tank installation/ pdf
The solution might be simple expansion tank installed on top of heater ... or installed anywhere on the incoming cold water line... easy and simple plumbing stuff for DIY.
If the expansion tank does not solve problem, a pressure reducing valve should probably be installed on incoming cold water line.
Buy:
Pressure reducing valves
Pressure regulating valves

My Wife took long hot shower, got two different readings at outside spigot both as high or higher than before.
Range was 90-95 psi. Seemed to get a little higher right when shower was turned off at 95psi.

I took a shower and used most of the hot water now and saw pressure increase on outside spigot and water heater up to 115 psi or so!
Now the pressure has spiked to 115.
Let me know if that gives you any other clues whenever you can. Thanks!

City water supply is main cause of high pressure in some areas ... up to 100-150 psi is not unusual.
This means you need a pressure reducing valve and expansion tank.
Both are required.
Why? Installing a pressure reducing valve causes a closed system ... which means TP will still leak water when heater is on.
The expansion tank is the correct solution for a closed system ... while pressure reducing valve is correct solution for high water pressure from city.

Best to install pressure reducing valve inside house ... for two reasons:

(a) pressure valves fail in about 5 years and need replacement
(b) in event that pressure adjustments are needed over time

You can install the pressure reducing valve underground .... buy underground plumbing 'vaults' in the sprinkler department at local store, or bury 5 gallon bucket (except it will crack apart).
Insulate against freezing.
Buy: underground sprinkler vault

Note that the pressure reducing valve is installed first in line and then expansion tank.
So expansion tank is installed closest to heater, and can be installed straight up, or down, or off to either side.