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Marathon element leaking |
 Question:I have a Rheem Marathon 50 gallon short water heater.  Sorry
to bug you with what will probably be a silly question, but what is the
metal plate called that the thermostats are mounted to? They kind of
wrap around the element (which seems to be what holds them in place)
and rise above it. It looks to be galvanized steel?In any case, my lower plate has completely corroded through, which then made the lower element run continuously and boil water out of the T&P valve. The upper plate is not far behind. Any idea where the heck I can find a couple of these? Answer: The Marathon clip or backplate is not listed on their parts sheet. The corresponding part on regular heater is called a thermostat clip, but it won't fit the Marathon. ____ This suggest that you have to call Rheem and deal with a tech agent who might, or might not know what you are asking or be able to supply the part. -The backplate might be something you could have the metal shop cut out of aluminum or steel ... if it is removable. Or cut your own using some metal material. Aside from that issue, your heater has an underlying problem: - A rusted or deteriorated clip indicates a leak in one or both elements, or some kind of moisture problem. If the water is particularly acid, or has some other treatment issue, it can become reactive with metals of course... especially steel -The heater will overheating when 1) the thermostat is not being held firmly against tank wall, or 2) the insulation that should always fill the element-thermostat cavity is not installed. |
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The element must be covered with insulation of it will under-read temperatures, causing tank overheating |
 Follow up email:Thanks, but the clip is actually not rusted. It has a bunch of white goo that is eating through it by what I can only assume is some sort of electrolysis (I'm an auto mechanic so this is the best way for me to describe it). The seals at the elements started seeping about six months ago and I've been so busy with trying to renovate the house that I put the heater on the back burner. This morning the water was boiling out and I discovered thermostat was no longer attached to the tank wall. Trying to find that part, especially on a Sunday, was making me crazy. Answer This needs immediate attention before it costs you a water heater.... the element leak will rust out the threads in water heater ... unless they're brass ... once threads are damaged, water heater is done. 1) Remove elements, use 1-7/8" socket... and see if you can seal using teflon tape or T2 teflon pipe sealant ... until new elements arrive, or you find suitable high-heat washer. 2) While lower element is out, use shop vac with various size plastic hoses taped to vacuum hose to clean out bottom of tank ... if bottom of tank is solid ... then buy new heater and keep up with maintenance. Water heater will not drain Follow up: I had assumed the element ports were brass. Didn't occur to me that they could be steel! I'm going to drain that sucker tomorrow. I'll let you know how it goes. Follow up: They look pretty brass like to me. I have both the elements out and they look like they're different materials. The long one came out of the bottom. I also shoved my work light in the top port and looked into the bottom. It was amazingly clean. I mean, AMAZINGLY. The dip tube looks pretty good, too. I have new gaskets on the elements and I'll tape up the threads. Hopefully that'll keep them from leaking. I'm not sure what I'm going to do about the bottom thermostat yet. Answer: The ports do look like brass but looks might be a bit deceptive maybe .... Your temperatures aren't causing too much pressure ... It appears the element ports are brass, but check for corrosion. You need new washers on the elements for sure.. 
Couple things to check:1) Household water pressure should be around 50 psi ... I set mine at 40 psi to prolong life of pipes, faucets, water heater ... fewer drips and failures, and water well pump lasts longer.... install pressure reducing valve and expansion tank on cold water line ... or adjust pressure at water well.. water pressure can spike sometimes if you're on city water... Here's a pressure gauge tester: Pressure tester 2) The rubber washer is supposed to seal on the metal rim (if it's not brass) at the element port ... Clean the rim real well and inspect for a smooth surface ... if surface is pitted, then rubber seal will not function ... 3) Closed system can cause too much pressure .... which is usually caused by a check valve or pressure reducing valve and sometimes a recirculation system .... install expansion tank anywhere on cold water line near water heater... Expansion tank 4) Vacuum relief valve on Marathon .... ''The vacuum relief valve provides a means to eliminate the negative pressure or vacuum by admitting air into the tank to equalize the pressure.'' I'm not sure that a vacuum would cause the problem you're experiencing ... but possible that your vacuum relief is bad? and you're getting a vacuum that deforms the tank slightly and then corrects itself ... creating possible leak conditions that have continued over time... Vacuum valve |
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