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Install AAV air admittance valve
E-mail: geno03245w@gmail.com
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How
to install vent under sink Install AAV air admittance valve E-mail: geno03245w@gmail.com |
 Oatey sure vent 6 DFU Approved to vent pipes up to 2" Buy sure-vent air admittance valve: 1 piece vent and tubular adapter 1 piece vent and tubular adapter |
 Oatey sure vent 20 DFU Approved to vent pipes up to 3" Buy sure-vent air admittance valve: Admittance valve 20 DFU vent Oatey sure vents are 100% closed if they fail... so never sewer gas odor |
 Sure vent wall box So vent can draw air Buy louvered access box: Oatey sure vent wall box Oatey access panels |
 Tubular drain pipe Flexible coupling 1-1/2 to 1-1/4 connector Chrome flexible drain pipe |
 T plus 2 with applicator brush Guarantee no leak Buy Rectorseal at Amazon |
| Connect to tubular
sink drain Approved up to 2" drain pipe Resource: Oatey 6 DFU spec sheet |
Glue to 1-1/2" or
2" PVC Approved up to 3" drain pipe Resource: Oatey sure vent installation |
Louvered access required for inside-the-wall sure vent Sure vent requires open access to air; to draw air, and for visual inspection, and for replacement |
Hard-to-find tubular parts for sink drains | T plus 2 guarantees
no leaking under sink (read instructions below) Does not dry out in can. 1/4 pint: handy size for DIYers |
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Keep septic smell, and
flammable methane gas out of
house Add
a vent to keep septic smell out of houseAnd improve line drainage If sink does not have gurgling sound, or septic smell, and drains well, then vent is probably installed. If sink has odor, fill trap with water and see if problem was caused by water evaporated from trap. Evaporation takes months, not days. |
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Do
you need a vent?
Each sink, shower and bathtub must have a trap filled with water to stop sewer gas from entering home, and each trap must have a vent Symptoms of no vent or inadequate vent: Gurgling sound when water is draining in home Sewer gas odor inside room Vent stack not visible above drain (look inside attic/ and on roof) Sinks directly in front of window often do not have vent No vent stacks visible on roof (or in attic) Slow drain Drain constantly clogging S-trap going through floor instead of P-trap going through wall Home must have at least one 3-4" main vent stack  Vent stack on roof. Must meet code for distance above roofing material. 6" minimum. To use sure-vent and meet code, the home MUST have at least 1 main stack vent to roof |
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Oatey sure vent / 20 DFU
Add vent to S-trap Approved to drain pipes up to 3" diameter Solvent weld to 1-1/2 or 2' PVC pipe DFU is printed on each air admittance vent. DFU is Drainage Fixture Unit values needed to meet plumbing codes. Improper DFU can cause slow drainage, gurgling and cause sewer gas to enter home. Buy sure-vent: Oatey 20 DFU vent Air admittance valves Resources: Oatey 6 DFU vent specification sheet DFU specification chart 20 DFU .pdf |
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... Add sure-vent to S-trap S-Trap goes through floor Vent must be in vertical position Buy: P-traps and trap adapter S-traps Quick vent or sure-vent at Amazon 1-1/2 tubular drain pipe PVC slip joint Tees at Amazon PVC slip joint elbow T plus 2 thread sealant at Amazon  Trap is full of water to stop odor from entering home Each trap requires a vent. Without proper vent, the trap water can siphon out and let in sewer gas |
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How
to solvent weld Sure-vent to PVC pipe Use primer to clean all PVC surfaces that will be connected. Primer has applicator. Protect floors and belongings from primer drips Let primer dry a few minutes. Glue 1 joint at a time. Glue has applicator. Apply generous amount of glue over entire surface of pipe. Immediately push the pipe into place. Push pieces together fully, and quickly. A moment later you will not be able to move the pipe. Glue next connection etc. Let dry for a few hours
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Oatey sure vent 6 DFU All in one vent for under sink Approved to drain pipes up to 2" Buy: sure-vent air admittance valve: 1 piece vent and tubular adapter 1 piece vent and tubular adapter |
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 Larger image... Add sure-vent to P-trap P-trap goes through wall Oatey meets code requirement: Minimum 4" space between horizontal pipe and vent Oatey 3925 rated 6 DFU/ Oatey 6 DFU vent specification sheet Vent must be located at least 2 pipe diameters away from trap weir Buy: Oatey sure vent with tubular adapter Sure vent with tubular adapter Sure vents at Amazon Buy: other parts:  P-traps and trap adapter S-traps Quick vent or sure-vent at Amazon 1-1/2 tubular drain pipe PVC slip joint Tees at Amazon PVC slip joint elbow T plus 2 thread sealant at Amazon 'Trap weir' is the final bend in trap as water exits trap Read more |
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Image shows 20 DFU Sure Vent
installed under bathroom sink. Image below shows 6 DUF Bathroom requires minimum 3 DFU 3 DFU is enough vent for toilet, sink, and tub/shower Kitchen sink requires minimum 1-1/2 - 2 DFU Washing machine 2 DFU This sink drains into a line that also drains bathtub. The 6 DFU is plenty of vent to prevent slow drainage, gurgling drains and prevent sewer gas from entering home. Buy: sure-vent air admittance valve: 1 piece vent and tubular adapter 1 piece vent and tubular adapter Resources: Oatey 6 DFU vent specification sheet DFU specification chart |
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Take photo of pipes before starting For ease and less strain, place cushion on floor in front of sink Wear kneepads Have another person available to hand items to you Post photos on facebook for cherished memories 
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Black vent inside wall Fail frequently Not code / Rated 1 DFU: not rated for 1 sink New black vent at my home lasted 1 month After failure, black vent sticks open Failed black vent lets sewer gas into home Resource: How to make perfect drywall repair |
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| Question about vent not working: Under sink vent not working. I have double sink with 1 P trap and a Tee that connects both sink bowls. There is AAV vent installed between P-trap and where pipe enters wall. When I run my disposal, it blows air up out of the other bowl and I get septic smell. What can I do to fix problem? | Answer: A professional plumber would know more than me ... With a double sink, a single P trap is code, but there are obviously other issues. First of all, the AAV lets air into the drain line. It does not function like a normal through-the-roof-vent that also allows air to escape the drain line. So when the drain is full of water, it pushes a column of air in front of the water. The air has nowhere to go because the drain line is clogged or the main stack (each house requires at least one 3" main vent line going through roof) is too far away, or house does not have main stack ... result: the air creates blockage, causing a back up into the other sink bowl. -It sounds like there is too much water being used when the disposal is running. Reduce the water flow. Dont' fill the sink full of water. Run the disposal for a bit, then do more later. I'd probably also consider following things in this order: -Higher level of DUF for the AAV ... use 20 DUF instead of 6 DUF -Take apart the tubular plumbing under sink to check if there is constriction -Make sure the drain line is not partially blocked -Install 1-1/2" PVC trap and drain instead of using 1-1/2 tubular (likely available at plumbing supply) -Larger drain line if possible ../. go with 2" PVC if the drain inside wall is 2" | |||||
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Always start by taking apart the trap Buy 1-1/2" tubular drain parts at local hardware or home center. 1-1/2" is standard code size for kitchen drain, disposal, sink basket etc. Buy: Quick vent or sure-vent at Amazon Solvent weld adapter between Vent and tubular drain pipe P-traps and trap adapter S-traps Quick vent or sure-vent at Amazon 1-1/2 tubular drain pipe PVC slip joint Tees at Amazon PVC slip joint elbow T plus 2 thread sealant at Amazon |
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Take apart S-Trap (or P-Trap) Unscrew 3 nuts, and bottom side of S-trap drops loose, and other side of S-trap lifts up Put bucket under sink to catch water. Notice that 1 nut is captive on the S-trap and cannot be removed This side of S-trap has beveled surface Notice that captive nut screws down and pushes beveled surface onto 2nd side of S-trap Notice that all other nuts have a plastic washer ... except captive nut. All washers and beveled surfaces must be cleaned This is so each piece fits tight when reassembled |
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Remove nuts and washers for cleaning Do not move outlet tee or tailpieces at top If outlet tee or tailpieces are moved around... ... Then they must be taken apart , cleaned, and put back. Buy: Outlet and tee replacement with 2 tailpieces nuts and washers Tailpiece washer Dishwasher tailpiece End outlet assembly with nuts and washers |
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Clean
parts: Nuts, washers, tubular pipes Remove all washers and nuts Clean outside of tubular pipe where nut and washer seat Clean plastic washer/ do not reuse damaged or broken washer Rubber washer must be replaced with new washer Clean threads so nut threads onto pipe smoothly Clean beveled surface where beveled washer seats inside pipe Inspect/ wash out tubular pipes to remove obstructions Tube should fit inside other tube at least 1" Less than 1" can work, but fittings might come loose easier Measure carefully, and buy extra parts if cut is too short |
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How to cut tubular pipe: Plastic or metal Tubular pipe has a thin wall, unlike water pipe and galvanized pipe that has a thick wall. So cutting tubular pipe is different. To make cutting it easy, and straight: Mark all the way around pipe using marker, or scratch-mark with hacksaw Cut through pipe at one place using hack saw Then rotate pipe forward, and cut some more Rotating forward is better. Keep rotating pipe as cuts are made Keep saw blade at angle so it is not cutting perpendicular against pipe |
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Tip for tubular drain:
Flat side of washer always faces the nut |
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Coat washers with T plus 2 Dry fit parts Position washer in place Use applicator and apply generous coat that covers entire washer Protect clothes and belongings from T plus 2... it is messy and difficult to clean off surfaces If you have rubber washer, old one must be replaced with new washer T plus 2 will seal the joint 100% on plastic or rubber Do not use silicone.... joint will never come apart and silicone might mold ... Rick emailed and disagreed with using T plus 2.... He says: If the nut will not seal, "loosen & retighten & check for foreign particles &/or a break in the washer. I check all my seal by filling the sink all the way to the top, then pull the plug. If I see a drip, I gradually tighten by hand the ring that needs it until it stops. This is so important. How is the housewife supposed to clear the trap if she can’t remove and reinstall it easily?" Buy: T plus 2 thread sealant at Amazon  |
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Tighten nuts loosely until all parts are assembled
Wait until all drain parts are together before nuts are fully tightened |
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Connect center nut
Tighten all nuts firmly Then go back and tighten all nuts a bit more |
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