It was 1972
I don’t know who organized it or how it got started but a bunch of guys wanted to go caving.
I knew the local caves. Those caves were all well-known and well traveled. It wasn’t like going to the moon.
There
were easy caves and harder caves. I decided we'd go to the toughest ...
.. the most dangerous one ... the least travelled.... Saltpeter.
It's not a pretty cave. Very few are. It's just tough and raw.
There
were no trails leading to Saltpeter. You had to know where it was. One
end of it was mined for saltpeter during the Civil War but we were
coming in a different way and headed a different direction into those
flood channels.
Maybe it was show off on my part wanting to go
there, or maybe the desire to show the guys something they would never
experience again, but secretly it was an honor.
I had taken
people on caving trips before to the easier caves, and once to a fairly
hard one where we ended up helping two people get themselves out. They
weren’t in desperate need of rescue, but probably they were and didn’t
know it yet.
Another time I'd gone caving alone in that same
cave and ended up helping a group find their way out. It was a
confusing place to go but I learned years before to look back to
recognize where I came from. And for crying out loud, the first
explorers burned and marked arrows along the route if you knew where to
look.
Except Saltpeter. There were no arrows or marks on those
walls, or if there were, they had long been washed off by floods and
the continual dampness.
Aside from scaling down between narrow
walls, getting lost, running out of light, injury and exhaustion, the
real danger in Saltpeter was flooding.
Those caves were storm drains
that had been carved down into the limestone and it was best to go on a
day when it hadn't been raining.
I'd gone into some caves after the rain to have a look at the water level, to get a gauge of the danger.
You wouldn't do that with Saltpeter.
When
I was in high school, my friend Steve and I usually went caving in the
winter because it was safe, but then you came out wet and nearly froze
in your pants getting back to the car.
It was Steve who got us into
caving. He was two years older. I was 14 and been roaming farm fields,
forests, railroad tracks, and crawling around limestone quarries since
7. Maybe earlier.
My parents let me do what I wanted. Of course I had to go to school, but my great love was the long walk in the country.
That's
how I met Steve and his brothers the summer before my sophomore year. I
ran into their house next to the railroad track on the way to
somewhere.
Steve was different. His parents wouldn't let him leave the yard. Until he met me.
His
mom let him take two 15 minutes hikes each day. That permission
combined with my natural instinct for rule breaking extended the
timetable and was catalyst for change. Of course, his parents told me
to go home and not come back more than once.
I kept coming back.
Steve
had lots of ideas that we did together. Built tree houses, wandered cow
pastures, climbed fences, explored barns, made gun powder, hunted
snakes, shot model rockets, went canoing, exploded small propane tanks,
and so on. Neither of us were mall and arcade kids.
He started reading about caves, and then went out and bought the gear.
I followed along. He had his driver's license by then.
Steve was a genuine explorer. I was more of a safety and mapping guy, not that he needed either.
It was Steve that pushed us into the cracks and passageways and adventures that I would never done on my own.
He's
the one that found the second entrance to Saltpeter cave after we
searched multiple times. It was on the map, so we knew it was somewhere
but couldn't find it.
We ended up going in the old mining
entrance a mile away and finally crawled our way over but ran out of
cave. Steve started climbing up between two rock walls of pure white. I
went along like usual.
Thirty feet up we ran out of cave again.
Neither of us wanted go back the way we came. We were tired and decided to eat lunch. I always brought 4 bologna sandwiches.
He kept saying it had to be right there. I don't know how he knew.
Then suddenly he said, I hear a plane.
We both looked straight up. I heard it too.
The
cave sits under the hill just west of the Bloomington airport. And sure
enough, there was one more crack we hadn't seen, and if that little
propeller plane hadn't gone over as we were sitting there eating lunch,
we would never have found it.
A few tricky footholds later and another twelve feet up and we we out in the sunshine laughing.
Amazingly
we had walked right by the entrance in every search. It was a split
that went straight down between two rocks about a foot and a half wide
at the base of a small rock outcropping.
It was impossible to see unless you were right on top of it.
Saltpeter
was our favorite cave after that, but it was different. It was wetter.
Flooding was no joke. There were four or five different streams from
all directions, and then they'd disappear into a crack or behind a
collapse. It was hard to make sense of it.
The first time we got
back into the deeper passageways we saw grass and stick debris stuck on
the ceiling. There were long stretches that got submerged, and I
studied the distances and challenge of getting to a high spot if there
was an emergency.
No matter it was best to go when it was not going to rain, so that's what we did in 1972.
Steve
had long since moved on to other things. He finshed school, still
needing adventure, and started running an old Ford in daredevil road
races with the law. I didn't go that direction exactly but he was
gifted that way.
Anyway, it was spring time and I checked the
weather carefully, so Saltpeter would be safe... and that's how the
decision was made.
The group of guys that day had come down from the northern part of the state.
I
didn't see a problem or risk among any of them. They seemed to be
rallied behind a guy they liked, and he was level headed, so it was
going to stay organized. I'd just have to show them the way.
Wouldn't have to worry about somebody getting off track and doing
something careless. I'd seen it before when I had to pull a friend up
off a ledge to keep him from falling down a 30 foot hole, and if I'd
seen it that day, maybe we would have gone to a different cave.
For me caving was always something new.
I don't know what the other guys saw.
The
walls of pure white stone covered with scallops where the water had
dripped down over thousands of years, gradually pitting and wearing
away the surface were my favorite.
Maybe they noticed the long
crawlways through water. Or the low wide stretches where you scraped
the gravel out of the way to fit through.
Did any of them see the
different streams coming from all over? Or the indistinct route at
times. Did any of them look back so they could get out on they're own?
Or did they simply trust me? I don't know, but I tell you that cave is about focus and hard work.
I wasn't a tour guide with extra energy to point out features that day. I had a destination in mind.
At
the very far end of that cave is a 60' waterfall. Genuine now. Not a
40' that looks 60'. It falls down into a large round dome that was
carved when the water hit an area of softer stone and begin cutting
downward through the layers, and there you are, standing at the bottom
looking up.
It runs year round. I never saw it during a rain.
That'd be a fool's trip, but you could imagine that thing would roar
off the top and fill the entire dome with spray. It was scary thinking
about that place filling with water.
There was a high and bone dry series of rooms and passageways nearby, and that's the only reason I took the risk of Saltpeter.
The passages went nowhere, but the group could huddle safe and cold in the dark and at least not drown.
On the way back I half miscalculated the carbide lamps.
I
left my bag at the beginning of cobble crawl. I should've taken it with
me but that 800 foot crawlway is so tough that I parked it instead of
dragging it along.
Our light source was several carbide lamps.
Water drips down into the carbide and creates acetylene that goes
through a tip. You burn the acetylene and it creates light.
Every
couple hours you clean out the lamps, put in fresh carbide and fill it
with water and maybe clean the tip, and you're good to go.
The extra carbide and water were in my bag.
The trip had taken longer than anticipated and the lamps were starting to dim. They needed a fresh reload.
I had a few tricks.
One
lamp at a time we turned it off and cleaned out the carbide, and then
salvaged enough unburned pieces to get three lamps going, and then peed
in the water container.
I had a pretty good understanding of light
but my inexperience showed. I should have assigned each man to carry a
small supply of their own, except how you keep it dry through all the
water?
I put the group in overdrive getting back through
cobble crawl. Just as well because we were getting worn down, and that
was the toughest spot on the return trip.
We made it to the bag got the lamps going, all of them this time and the rest the trip was uneventful.
The guys were pretty joyous getting out, made me think that some of them were a bit nervous about it.
The
true measure of their mood was how boisterous the fellows were when we
got back to the apartment, clumping up the stairs with more energy than
when we left. Like they conquered Everest. Not quite, but it was fun.
I
suspect they had an adventure, but I still wonder what they saw, and
what they thought. Or maybe they went out for a beer and forgot the
whole thing next day.